Ten salvaged 1960s dials are used by Nivada Grenchen as "new old stock." Depthmasters

  • 16-January-2024

The watch industry is not showing any signs of tiring of the current trend of bringing back classic designs.

Retro timepieces are here to stay, propelled by a new generation of watch enthusiasts who are discovering vintage looks and origin tales, as well as by an abundance of educational resources available from specialized media.

Guillaume Laidet relaunched Nivada Grenchen in 2018 after realizing the growing demand for historic marques and their mid-20th century timepieces. The brand dates back to the mid-1920s, but it was put on hold after the quartz crisis in the 1980s.

With the introduction of a limited edition Depthmaster dive watch featuring "new old stock" (NOS) movements and dials, the company is now capitalizing on its early momentum and growing interest in its vintage watches.

As quartz replaced mechanical watches, manufacturers have been saving, restoring, and repurposing NOS movements—movements that were all but worthless.

Due to the perception that NOS dials are connected with Frankenstein watches—watches that have been pieced together to create a particular vintage watch style—they are less common and can be difficult to wear.

Since Mr. Laidet found that many slightly faded glossy orange vintage dials in the company's storage, Nivada Grenchen will not experience that problem with its new Depthmaster NOS, which is limited to 10 pieces.

While 1,000 or 2,000 feet of water resistance was more typical at the time, the Depthmaster, which debuted in 1965, set a new benchmark with 3,300 feet.

Tritium was utilized in its dials for luminescence, in place of radioactive Radium, which the industry continued to use until the early 1960s.

In contrast to the contemporary Super-LumiNova utilized in the new core collection (not limited) Depthmasters, this gives the dials a distinct, more distinctly retro glow.

The ten NOS models differ from the core collection models in another way as well. The vintage date wheel is visible on the date display located at 3 o'clock.

Steel divers' countdown bezel and 39mm cushion-shaped steel case are shared by the limited edition NOS Depthmasters and the core collection.

A three-hand SOPROD P024 automatic movement powers the core collection, while a refurbished ETA 2472 powers the NOS piece.

A large selection of steel bracelets and straps are available for the NOS Depthmaster.

The core collection piece is available now for $995 from Nivada Grenchen, while the limited edition NOS Depthmaster will go on sale on January 18 for $2,890.

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