LVMH Watch Week in Miami is made more cheerful by Bulgari

  • 29-January-2024

Since the 1930s and 1940s, gold has been a staple of Bulgari designs. This year, it takes center stage in collections like Octo Finissimo, Bulgari Bulgari, and Lucea, creating an overall story of sophistication and opulence.

CEO Jean-Christophe Babin claims that the new pieces capture the complex difficulty of transforming emotion into material forms, especially in light of time's unrelenting passage. Gold represents a classic elegance in this endeavor that goes beyond simple watchmaking.

Bulgari Bulgari: a classic symbol

The Bulgari Bulgari watch was inspired by Gianni Bulgari's 1975 Bulgari Roma, a solid gold watch that Bulgari designed as a gift for the company's top 100 clients. Its design reflected the fashions of the day, with the house logo appearing twice in a sleek, contemporary manner.

After nearly 50 years, the maison has now brought the watch back, which Lucia Boscaini, director of brand heritage at Bulgari, calls "arguably our most important wristwatch."

It comes in two sizes that are appropriate for the mid-century: 26mm and 38mm for the yellow gold model with a black dial and rose gold with a silver opaline dial. Smaller versions are powered by quartz, while larger models contain self-winding movements.

In a partnership with Blackpink, Lisa, the brand is releasing two more 23mm or 33mm quartz models (this is the brand's second venture with the K-pop sensation). An edelweiss flower is engraved on the caseback of the two limited editions, signifying the artist's unwavering bond with the alpine star. The dial is embellished with 400 squares of white mother-of-pearl set in a geometric pattern, as well as diamonds.

Octo Finissimo: a synthesis of skills

Since its launch in 2014, Octo Finissimo has come to represent the perfect combination of Roman elegance and Swiss watchmaking expertise.

The Octo Finissimo, an engineering marvel of minimalist design, revolutionized the watchmaking industry forever. The company combined a mechanical revolution with quintessential Italian style, setting eight records for slimness in the first eight years of business.

Bulgari's original Art Deco watches from the late 1930s have a vintage charm that Octo Finissimo has reinterpreted in 2022, embracing the timeless lustre of yellow gold.

The Octo Finissimo Tuscan Copper is a steel watch with a metallic copper dial that the brand likens to the colors of 16th-century Italian Renaissance Mannerist paintings.

A triple-blade folding clasp and a satin-finished yellow gold bracelet are the case's final features, which set it apart with its 58 facets and architectural angles.

The blue dial with a sunray finish adds the last luxurious detail to the gold's splendor. The blue hour markers and hands contrast sharply with the gold, perfectly capturing the stylish and athletic vibe of this watch.

The new Octo Finissimo is water resistant for up to 100 meters and has a 40 mm diameter while only being 6.4 mm thin. Viewed through the transparent caseback is the 2.23mm-tall BVL 138 calibre featuring Côtes de Genève stripes, circular graining, and hand-finished chamfers.

Lucea: ten years of extravagance

Marking a decade of existence, Lucea continues to be a shining example of Bulgari's approach to timepieces with jewels. The refined lines of the new models, which are made of steel and gold, encase marquetry dials with iridescent mother-of-pearl or recycled malachite fragments.

Lucea, who has consistently changed to reflect Bulgari's dedication to fusing style and substance—creating a jewel and then imagining the calibre that would best complement it—is a prime example of the brand's reputation as the "Roman Jeweller of Time."

Marking its decade milestone, Lucea’s case and bracelet have been refined to embody a new lightness and flexibility akin to the jewellery collections such as Serpenti. The bracelet features polished steel or rose gold central elements set in softer, rounded V-shaped links.

Mother-of-pearl or malachite signature Intarsia dials in white or green are framed by slimmer bezels. There are 33mm and 38mm versions of the watches with quartz or self-winding movements available.

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